In the entire makeup category, base makeup has always been considered “the closest makeup to skin care products”. And makeup, as a part of base makeup, its requirements for formula technology also continue the high standards similar to skin care products.
The core raw materials and product form determine different makeup fixing effects . The commonly used are mainly makeup setting powder and makeup setting spray.
Sensient is a world-renowned supplier of colorants, flavors and raw materials. For makeup fixing products, Sensient’s technical team said: “Different product forms achieve different makeup effects. For example, the makeup effect achieved by loose powder is more transparent and natural, and the powder cake has relatively stronger covering power. The makeup setting spray is used in After the liquid foundation, use it on the face in a large area without changing the original covering power, and after forming a film, it can achieve the effect of prolonging the makeup effect.”
1) Makeup setting spray
Different from the conventional moisturizing spray, the makeup setting spray consists of a film-forming agent + moisturizing ingredients + oil-controlling ingredients . The film-forming agent can sneak into the gaps of the base makeup powder, strengthen the connection between the powders, and cross-link into a ” firm film”, so as to maintain the makeup look for a long time.
Headquartered in the United States, Momentive High-tech Materials Group is the second largest silicone manufacturer in the world. The company has long served many well-known beauty and personal care brands at home and abroad. “Ingredients and raw materials are the core components of beauty and personal care products. Based on the principle of makeup setting spray, film- forming agent is the core ingredient, and it is also the hard-core key point for comfortable, breathable and long-lasting makeup for base makeup and sunscreen products. The softness and toughness of the agent, the affinity with the skin, the breathability, the anti-perspiration and oil control, the compatibility with the base makeup ingredients, etc., the presentation of the final makeup effect, the comfort, the lasting performance, and the avoidance of rubbing mud etc. It’s important,” said the Momentive personal care team.
It is understood that film-forming agents are generally high molecular polymers, and different polymers bring different effects. There are mainly five kinds of film formers commonly used in cosmetics: protein film formers, acrylic resin film formers, polyethylene copolymers, silicone polymers and silicon acrylates.
According to the introduction of the R&D team of Reliance B&H, film-forming agents can be roughly divided into two categories: water-based film-forming agents and oil-based film-forming agents according to their polymer or hydrophilic or lipophilic characteristics. Such as acrylate copolymers, due to their low solid content, the amount of film-forming agent added is usually as high as 10-15% or even more. It can be said that the film-forming agent plays a key role in the final makeup setting effect. Therefore, the development of an exclusive film-forming agent suitable for makeup setting sprays to maximize the makeup setting effect is the key point of future innovation.
Momentive said: “The longevity and comfort of makeup setting sprays are common pain points. Because makeup setting sprays are usually water-based formulas, most of the water-based film formers in the market are PVP or acrylic polymers. It is easy to rub mud. In contrast, silicone film-forming agents have a better skin feel. It has good compatibility with base makeup, and its raw material improvement and application to water-based makeup setting sprays are one of the innovative directions. For example, the water-based MQ resin emulsion SeraShine ™ EM509, and silicone modified acrylic film former SilForm ️ HydroFlex emulsion, with the unique softness and breathability of silicone, is suitable for setting sprays and other water-based cosmetic formulations. ”
“There is an increasing demand for natural, sustainable and safe products in the market. Some film-forming agents derived from natural sources, such as renewable pine resin processed products from pine trees, have a good waterproof film-forming effect, and their natural properties are also It is more conducive to telling product stories.” Sensing added.
Reliance B&H Makeup Setting Spray
Reliance B&H Makeup Setting Spray
2) Loose powder/Setting Powder/Finishing Powder
The main components of makeup setting powder are silica, talc, etc., relying on the porous structure of the powder particles to absorb the oil secreted on the face. According to the different powder particles and structure of the specific product, the makeup setting effect will also have certain differences.
However, mineral components such as talc and mica have always been criticized. They can create a better skin feel, have strong adsorption, and have stable ingredients and low cost. However, long-term use of mineral powders can easily cause problems such as rough skin, dryness, and sensitivity.
In addition, asbestos that may be contained in talc belongs to a class of carcinogens, and the safety of talc has also attracted attention. Previously, Johnson & Johnson’s talc products have been sued by consumers many times due to the presence of carcinogen asbestos, and were sentenced to high compensation.
Sensing said: “In terms of powder innovation, on the one hand, you can seek alternatives to talc, such as natural sources of silica, mica, or vegetable powders. On the other hand, you can use hydrogenated lecithin, natural sources of vegetable oil wax and Powder coating with substances such as natural actives, that is, coating the powder surface with functional ingredients to improve particle dispersion and formulation compatibility. ”
Momentive said: “Under the background of the promulgation of the EU’s relevant plastic restriction regulations and the global consensus on green sustainable development, reducing plastic particles has become an important trend in the beauty industry. Therefore, the skin feel, makeup effect and compatibility of cosmetic powders are taken into account. And safety and natural source index are one of the market research and development directions. For example, the raw material Harmonie ™ Luxe 4 powder, is a kind of silica with a natural source index of 1, which is hydrophilic, suitable for both powder products and water-based products. Makeup setting spray.”
Reliance B&H Makeup Setting Powder
Reliance B&H Makeup Finishing Powder
Raw ingredients are an important part of determining the final effect of a makeup setting product, but they are not the only factor.
Reliance B&H took the makeup setting spray as an example, saying: “The material is sprayed through the pump head, and the internal structure of the pump head, the fan angle of the water mist, the amount of mist per single time, and the particle size of the water mist will all affect the final result. Therefore, we specially developed a uniform micro-pressure pump head with an internal pressurization system for the makeup setting spray , and further shredded the material body through a special small-sized spray piece and spiral groove to achieve a single spray more uniform coverage The effect of the whole face, the auxiliary film former can lock the makeup for a long time.”
Momentive added : “An excellent beauty product needs to consider the overall formula presentation effect, the compatibility and synergy between raw materials and ingredients, and the complementarity of contents and packaging. For example, in addition to the core ingredients, solvents, moisturizing agents in makeup setting sprays Agents, skin feel enhancers, rheology agents, actives, preservatives can all affect the performance of the product and the experience of use.”
Technical requirements are even higher than skin care products, how to innovate makeup products ?
With the changes in market demand, makeup setting products not only put forward higher requirements for the selection of raw materials, but also pose challenges to the formulation, process and packaging of products.
From the perspective of raw material companies, Senshin also said: “Compared to skin care, it is very challenging to make formulas that are more stable, longer-lasting and have good skin feel due to the introduction of toners in the formulations and components of make-up products. Many makeup setting products are now incorporating innovative technologies, such as the use of optical toners, or the introduction of sunscreen, anti-blue light, and other skincare concepts into makeup setting products.”
“Innovation should be made in the setting makeup category, not only from the aspects of formula, technology, dosage form, craftsmanship, etc., but also from the subdivision field to develop customized makeup products. For example, research and development for different parts, different skin types, and different scenarios. Corresponding and subdivided makeup products, including eyebrow raincoats for eyebrow makeup, eye primer for eye shadow makeup, etc. In addition, the realization of 100% sustainable products will also be a very important research and development point in the future.” Bai Ruimei said .
Can makeup “black technology” achieve the effect of “skin nourishing”?
In addition to the basic functions of oil control and makeup fixing , in product innovation, makeup fixing products also derive effects such as “skin nourishing”, anti-oxidation, and complexion modification. The new product concept represented by skin care and makeup has gradually formed a differentiated track in the domestic category competition. However, it is still very technically difficult for makeup setting products to truly achieve the claimed effect of nourishing the skin.
Momento believes: “Makeup steps include cleaning, moisturizing, moisturizing, sun protection, pre-makeup, base makeup, etc. Makeup setting is usually the last step of base makeup. Cleaning, moisturizing and moisturizing are the foundations for the establishment of the skin barrier, and sun protection is the foundation of the skin . It is an important step in protection, anti-aging and anti-aging, so from a functional point of view, the care steps before base makeup are more critical to skin care.”
However, despite this, they still believe that skin care is one of the important ideas throughout the development of the entire beauty line. In the process of research and development of makeup products , mildness, safety, comfort and breathability, and good affinity with the skin are the primary principles of raw material selection; secondly, starting from the overall formula, synergistically enhance skin barrier, moisturizing, sun protection, or consider different consumption Depending on the skin condition, the introduction of soothing and anti-allergic active ingredients may become an idea for skin care and makeup .
Reliance B&H believes: ” The key to nourishing and fixing makeup is that the ingredients are natural and safe, and will not cause burden or irritation to the skin. For loose powder products, mineral powders have good skin feel and good oil control, but long-term use can easily cause skin sensitivity and stuffiness. Acne and other problems, if it can solve the problem of plant powder being dry and easy to agglomerate, perishable, and difficult to mass-produce, then pure plant powder will also be another way to fix makeup. In addition, in makeup setting spray, through Natural repairing factors such as ectoine work synergistically with film-forming agents, and can also achieve the effect of repairing and fixing makeup in one.”
Among the makeup products that focus on the concept of skin care, “repair”, “moisturizing” and “suitable for sensitive skin” are the most important efficacy keywords. In order to deal with consumers’ concerns about the clogging of pores and skin allergies caused by loose powder, the use of mineral powder is reduced or replaced in the materials used, and the moisturizing and soothing ingredients such as hyaluronic acid are compounded, which can effectively enhance the mildness of makeup products. sex.
Many people believe that in the cosmetics industry, make-up is more inclined to the fashion industry, with rich colors and avant-garde designs as the main selling points. However, the makeup category that belongs to base makeup is not fashion or color-oriented. It combines some features of color cosmetics and skin care products, so it has higher requirements for scientific research and technology, and product research and development innovation is also more difficult. However, judging from the technical research and application of makeup products by domestic brands , innovative products are beginning to iterate on past products.
Although the cosmetics industry has always been the “marketing commanding heights industry”, the era of pure marketing has passed. Based on scientific research and technology, through social media matrix marketing to amplify the potential of products and brands, and to convey the scientific story of R&D to consumers, this is the focus of brand marketing now. In the makeup track, we also see this trend.
Post time: 09-03-2022
